Mon-Fri 8:00am - 6:00pm
Open Every Other Saturday at 9am
Sunday By Appointment
2872 East 3400 North
Twin Falls, ID 83301
Already stripped , sandblasted and ready for repairs
owner furnished new rear pan, will only use part of it.
rust holes inside trunk
tail light mount area damage
rust and lead in cowl, fender mount area
will clean up previous repairs
drivers side cowl also rusty
removed lead to see damage
removing rusty rear panel
starting to straighten dents in trunk opening edges
inner panel has a lot of rust
left rear corner was hit in the past, shadows show lots of ripples
body shop repaired the rear fenders several years ago, made the dent in the right one look good. Will fix correctly.
lead was hiding rust and a dent
Bolted the trunk lid on, found left corner very low.
A little bending and prying got the corner up near perfect.
Right side lines up.
lid is 1/4 inch higher than front panel. Will raise the front panel to match
Rust and filler in trunk lid.
Will pull dents out and replace rusty steel.
Reproduction rear panel, edges are not stamped very sharp, will keep the original trunk edges.
Remove what I won't use.
Install fenders to check straightness and gaps. Gaps at the damaged tail light area and bottom 6 inches.
After a little metalwork, much straighter.
Apparently the body shop that repaired the rear fenders thought this indent was supposed to be there. Its not, will repair correctly
Hammering out the dent, filler cracking off.
Very thin metal is cracking, will replace with new steel.
Need to bend the trunk corner outward a little, won't move, found a large area of lead, melt out to let it flex easier.
5/8" deep dent filled with lead.
With the extreme stretching of the metal, it easier to cut the deepest part of the crease, straighten then weld back together.
Removing the rusty corner, also hole thru inner skin.
Pencil and a long tooth inside this corner.
Shrinking the dent on the outer corner and straightening the trunk crease.
Ready to cut holes for bumper mounts.
After about a dozen fittings and trimmings, finally tack welding in place, trying to keep an even gap for the trunk lid.
More welding and patched the inner trunk lid hole.
Patch tacked in place.
Need to remove fender to finish a little welding and grinding, then a little more metal work.
Trunk done, more grinding of welds , still fighting with the gap where the crease was.
Rust holes under the fender, will cut out, weld new steel in.
Welded in, time to grind
From all the hammering, bondo fell out of 5 holes in the trunk lid, will weld them shut correctly.
Finally got the gap opened up.
Crack in edge of rear fender has to be welded.
I tape plugs into holes then weld
Spot weld and cool then repeat
Welds ground smooth
Bottom of right side cowl, rust
Still found trapped dirt inside.
Hand formed replacement piece
Clamped in place and start welding
Welded and ground smooth, on to the corner
2nd piece formed and welded in
3rd and final section welded in and smoothed
Front floors cleaned up , ground owners welds
Owners weld to smooth out
Previous patches in firewall
Smoothed out welds
Attempted to weld small rust holes, just melts away, will cut out and replace.
Lots of grinding to smooth out previous welds.
Did a little shrinking to flatten the firewall.
Removed all the paint, found one more dent near the top
Cleaning it out and sanding the flat areas, then will sandblast edges and deep contours
Getting ready to seal the floors with POR-15
Cracks on the original lead, moisture may have crept into and start rusting under neath. Will remove and re-lead.
Floors and lower seams all sealed
Both seams had a little rust near the trunk opening(dark spots)
New lead added to factory seams, and filed smooth
Primer sealer sprayed on whole body, inside and out, top to bottom.
Thin filler added to low spots.
Found more cracks filled with bondo, will weld
Bolt fender on to hold shape while sanding
Light coat of black guide coat then more sanding to show low areas.
more careful sanding til low spots disappear or metal starts to show.
All primed again.